Care advice

Trousers that are lined with Clarion or Deawoo should always be washed before use to avoid shedding on light leather, e.g. the saddle.

Machine wash: Pour solution in the detergent tray and wash at 40° (unless otherwise stated).

Hand wash: Pour the solution in as much water (max 40°) as it takes to cover the trousers. Leave to soak for approx. 30 minutes.

Drying: Press out water (do not wring) and allow to drip dry at room temperature. Rub the leather now and then during the drying time as well as when dry to remove some of the "hardness" after washing.

Always use boot trees/hangers that protect both leather and zips. Certain boots are considered to be more riding boots than stable boots. The tough environment in the stable where urine is present wears more on the leather and the boots should therefore not be used as stable boots.

The zip also needs to be maintained, make sure you clean and wipe them, avoid gravel and always brush off the zip after dusty rides. Always use a shoe horn.

Always start by greasing/oiling your new belongings before you use them (but make sure you try them first). Keep all leather dry and cool. Clean regularly with leather soap.

Grease/oil all leather to maintain its suppleness and to increase durability. Let it dry for several hours, then rub off any excess.

Grease in moderation "adequate is best". Re-oiling needs to be done to increase the life of the leather.

Conditioner – Contains different oils and waxes. Makes leather soft and gives a slightly water repellent surface. Re-oiling is done after cleaning with soap.

Oil – Protects against water, damp, mould and salt/salt water (sweat). Keeps the leather soft and supple and makes it "resistant to tearing". Contains mineral oils, animal and vegetable fats. Good on leather that has become dry. You should not use too much along the seams as it can easily become airtight and the seams can "rot" and give. This generally applies to all leather oil.

Glycerine soap – Glycerine is also a preservative and softener for leather, and is especially good for light leather. It has a greater polishing effect and is therefore preferable if you want your leather to shine.

Lanolin soap – Lanolin is a preservative and softens leather. Use with very little water.

A saddle stuffed with wool, or synthetic wool can need re-stuffing after a period of use. The stuffing settles and can also be affected by the rider's seat and the horse's anatomy.

Saddle makers usually state that a saddle needs checking after 6-12 months.

How to waterproof your rug: Wash according to instructions and rinse out all detergent. Let dry. Waterproof and leave to dry for 12 hours. Note: The rug can darken slightly after waterproofing.

If any wet snow is left on the rug, even waterproof breathable rugs can become damp. During long periods of rain, water often penetrates the area around the neck and withers and the rug feels damp at the edges. Worn and washed rugs can begin to leak over time. You can then use rug waterproofing to make them waterproof. Do not wash outdoor rugs too often. Brush off dirt only when the rug has dried instead.

If the horse catches or steps on the rug, even the strongest rug can be damaged. The best way of repairing a damaged rug is to cut off any frayed edges and then glue a piece of fabric to the underside and maybe sew around the actual tear. You should however, sew waterproof fabric as little as possible as sewing perforates the cloth and can cause leakage.

Note: When trying the rug, remember to place a sheet or thin rug underneath, next to the horse. If the rug becomes dirty or looks used in any other way, we cannot accept it as a return if it does not fit.