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When you are going for a ride, it's important to choose the right basic equipment, the important safety equipment that will protect you should an accident occur. Equestrian sports sometimes involve risks, but there is a lot we can do to limit the risk of accidents and injuries. Learning to handle and understand the horse is one and choosing the right protective equipment is another. You don't need to have the latest equipment or specially adapted clothing and shoes in order to ride – but it is often easier if you use clothes and shoes that the market has developed specifically for the purpose.

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Riding boots or riding shoes? Read more here

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Helmets – read more about helmets here

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Body protectors – read more about body protectors here

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Underwear

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We begin closest to the body. Choosing the right underwear can actually contribute to improving the riding session. It is important for women to have a good sports bra, this takes the strain off both the bust and the spine. Briefs and underpants should preferably not have any seams that can rub against you when sitting in the saddle.

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Upper body

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It is easy to get warm when riding or working in the stables. This is why you should choose to wear some type of functional clothing closest to the body so that moisture is transported away and you do not become cold. The jumper or jacket you wear over this should also have the ability to wick moisture so that you keep warm and dry. It is good to have clothes that are soft and close-fitting as large and loose clothes are not recommended because you become clumsy in these and it is harder for your instructor to see how you are actually sitting. For jackets equipped with hoods, it is good if these can been easily removed as hoods can cause accidents if they become entangled in branches, for example, when you are out on a ride.

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Riding breeches and chaps

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Riding breeches fit well, reduce the risk of blisters and, depending on the material, can also help you to sit better and have more stability in the saddle. Riding breeches are a little tighter in order to prevent unnecessary creases that could result in blisters. The seams on riding breeches are also placed where they will not cause discomfort. Riding breeches can been made from various materials – cotton, polyester, micropolyamide and elastane are commonly used.

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Riding breeches can be full seat, knee-patch or completely unpadded. Full seat breeches generally provide a better grip on the saddle, while many people feel that they get deeper into the saddle with unpadded or knee-patch breeches.

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Riding breeches are designed to be worn with riding boots, but they are now also used together with riding shoes and short chaps/gaiters. On the other hand, if you have jodhpurs, these are worn with riding shoes. Jodhpurs are somewhat straighter and a little wider at the bottom, many also have a foot strap that is placed under the foot to prevent the trouser leg riding up when you sit on the horse.

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There are also various covers to provide protection and keep you clean, dry and warm. Chaps are a practical and simple to pull on over riding breeches, you can also take them off and put them on when you are sitting on the horse. The majority of chaps are made of suede or napa leather, but there are now some made of waterproof nylon and they work brilliantly in rain and foul weather.

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Thermal riding breeches are also available for use in winter. These can either be pulled on over riding breeches or simply over thermal leggings, for example. The benefit of thermal riding breeches over normal salopettes is that they are usually equipped with zips that go the full length of the legs, making it easier to get them on and off, and that they normally have a full seat, giving you a better grip on the saddle.

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Gloves

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Using gloves when you work with a horse or in the stables is a good way to protect your hands. It is really easy to \\\"burn\\\" your hands on the halter strap if you are leading a horse that is trying to get away. Use gloves that are as smooth as possible. Three-finger gloves are a good choice for winter riding.

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Spurs and whips

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You may sometimes need further assistance when riding; spurs and whips are available in various sizes and designs to suit both you and the horse. Neither spurs nor whips are intended to be used to punish the horse, rather they are for reinforcing/clarifying your aids. This is something that we should never forget. If you intend to compete, it is important that you check the competition rules to see what you are allowed to use.

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Important to bear in mind!

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Never leave your protective equipment sitting in the sun, on the parcel shelf in a car, for example, as the sun's rays can affect the material in the equipment.

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Riding boots or riding shoes, what you choose depends a bit on your personal taste. Riding boots are available in various models and styles. When you begin riding and maybe don't want to spend too much money on equipment a pair of artificial leather riding boots can be a good idea. This is also true for children who are still growing a lot. Artificial leather riding boots are also more resistant to moisture, while leather riding boots last a long time on the condition that you are diligent in keeping them clean and oiled.

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Different models of riding boots

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Of course, the model you choose will depend on your taste and what you think is the most comfortable. It can also have an impact on your choice if you compete and are concentrating on a particular discipline. Dressage boots are usually stiffer and straighter, if they have zips they are usually obliquely to the front. Jumping and all-round boots are usually soft and more flexible, they may have laces in the middle of the front and a zip at the back.

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When you choose boots, make sure you don't choose a pair that are too short, the leg \\\"settles\\\" after a while and it's not pleasant if the boot feels too short. If a high leg feels uncomfortable at the beginning you can put in a small wedge sole to prevent blisters at the back of the knee.

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Riding shoes and gaiters/short chaps

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Riding boots provide more support to the leg than riding shoes, but if you prefer to have a pair of riding shoes you can complement these with short chaps/gaiters to get something that appears similar to a pair of boots. The benefit of this combination is that it is usually significantly cheaper and it can be easier to find something that fits both the foot and the leg perfectly.

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In winter, when you have slightly more robust and chunky shoes, you may need to change up to larger stirrups to prevent your shoes from getting stuck.

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Stable shoes and stable boots

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Bear in mind that both riding boots and riding shoes should be used when riding and not when working in the stable as soles, seams and zips are not designed for the wear and tear caused by, for example, manure, urine and wood shavings.
Sturdy shoes with a good sole are beneficial when tending to a horse and stable. Protective shoes with steel toe-caps reduce the risk of a trampling injury. You can even get shoes with soles that protect you should you step on, for example, a nail and soles that protect against urine and chemicals.

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You can ensure a really enjoyable riding trip or time in the stables, whatever the weather or season, by taking care in how you dress. Of course, we can't promise that your horse will be in a good mood, but with the right riding clothes at least you won't be freezing or sweaty. We asked our designer Ann-Therese Helgesson for tips on how to dress - whatever the weather.

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Spring/summer

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✓ Riding breeches reduce the risk of chafing. It's down to personal preference whether you have full or half-seat breeches or whether or not you have silicone padding. Invest in a pair of breeches made of technical material that are dirt-resistant, quick-drying, water-repellent and offer UV protection. If you go riding in a pair of leggings, they need to be comfortable and not have any irritating seams.

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✓ T-shirt, piqué polo, light shirt, technical shirt or knitted top? This depends on where and how you are going to be riding. If you're out in the woods where there's a risk of cuts and scrapes from foliage, it may be wise, for example, to choose a long-sleeved top that offers the best protection.

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✓ Sadly, summertime often brings rain. If you're just going from the stable to the riding hall, clearly a poncho will do, but if you're off out riding in the woods, the comfortable option is to wear a rain jacket.

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✓ Thin summer gloves will both protect your hands and give you a better grip on the reins.

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✓ A ventilated lightweight helmet will stop you getting too hot, even in sunny conditions.

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✓ A belt bag will allow you to carry your phone even on hot days when you're riding in just a T-shirt and breeches. Practical and good.

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✓ Finally, choose a pair of riding boots, jodhpurs or chaps that fit well.

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Autumn/winter, indoors

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To avoid being cold - or unnecessarily sweaty - the best solution is layering. You can always add or remove a layer during your session. Equestrianism is a physically demanding sport that benefits from the use of technical clothing tailored to the kind of riding you intend to do.

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✓  Riding breeches reduce the risk of chafing. It's down to personal preference whether you have full or half-seat breeches or whether or not you have silicone padding. Invest in a winter model in a soft shell material. They are stretchy, with fleece on the reverse and a brushed inside to improve airflow. Wear thermals if you need that little bit of extra warmth.

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✓ Many riders come to their lessons wearing a gilet, a microfleece jacket and a coat. Your gilet should have elasticated sides and be thin but still warm where it really makes a difference. A thin gilet also makes it easy for your instructor to see how you are sitting and moving in the saddle.

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✓ If you ride a lot and want to improve the circulation in your calves so that they don't go numb and stiff, compression socks are what you need. They also reduce muscle soreness afterwards. But I'd also like to bang the drum for woolly socks. Wool is a fantastic material - all year round.

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✓ Invest in a pair of ordinary riding gloves in a flexible synthetic material with a soft mesh upper, or a pair of leather gloves.

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✓ You can wear a riding skirt on the way to training and during the warm-up. It will keep your thighs warm, a part of the body that often gets cold.

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Autumn/winter, outdoors

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✓ A good, durable set of thermals is a must. You should also invest in a fleece or a knitted sweater and a thick jacket. If, for example, you're going at walking pace for an hour, you can easily get cold unless you have a jacket to keep you warm. For full-on interval workouts or gallop sessions, a shell jacket works well even in the cold if you do a good job with your layering.

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✓ With overalls, you automatically get warmth all over in one go. But be sure not to overdress! It's never cool to have to get sweaty and sticky.

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✓ A buff is great for stopping the cold air getting into your jacket via your neck. You can also wear it over your head under your helmet so that the buff covers your cheeks. You can see your buff as a multi-purpose tool when it's windy.

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✓ Thick summer gloves with padding on the top will both protect your hands from the cold and give you a good grip on the reins.

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✓ Your feet are particularly vulnerable to the cold. Remember that you should always be able to wriggle your toes, so don't put five pairs of socks on and hope that that will solve the problem. Your toes need space. Instead, go riding wearing lots of layers, woolly socks and a woollen insole. Your thighs, too, are exposed in winter, so invest in a longer riding skirt or coat. Also invest in padded trousers and some Earbags to protect your ears. 

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All riding breeches has it’s own combination of fit, material and function. The fit is the most important thing, it should be comfortable. That’s why it’s so important that you try on a number of different breeches so you will find the perfect match for your shape. Because even though all riding breeches are stretchy, the fit varies. A great tip along the way are that you should be able to move freely, bend your knees and squat.

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Quality and features

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Our riding breeches are made in different material combinations/functional materials so that you can customize your choice according to season and temperature. Remember that you should like the material, that it feels nice on your body. Then find out the different properties of the material combo. If the pants are in four-way stretch, they have an extra good fit and give you maximum freedom of movement. If you choose a functional material, it is usually breathable, but can also be dirt-repellent, quick-drying and UV-proof.

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Some models have some special features. Our riding breeches in stretchy soft shell are for example warm lined with fleece on the inside which makes it a popular winter breech. There are also high-tech riding pants with Icefil® that keep you cool and carry moisture away from the body, Core Control Technology ™, which provides extra support to the core muscles (abdomen and back) and Calf Fit System ™ which provides calf and ankle support plus relieves pressure points and friction in the boots.

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Functions

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Choose features based on what you need in your riding. Silicone / PU are materials that in different ways give good grip depending on the designs they have and where these designs are placed. If the pants are fully cushioned, it can be with Daewoo or silicone / PU. Generally, a full-length trouser gives better grip in the saddle, but most of it is about your own experience and what improves your riding. The half-padded breeches have better grip at the knees while the knee-reinforced has double fabric at the knees and is an option for those who do not want any grip function at all. 

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Details

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The waist of the riding breeches is usually higher at the back to avoid uncomfortable slips and that it becomes too \\\"choppy\\\" when sitting in the saddle. The seams are strategically positioned so that you do not get scuffs and the leg closures are either in elastic material or have Velcro fasteners, which makes it easy and comfortable to hold the pants in place. Leg length you choose according to what you enjoy with as we also have pants with slightly longer legs. Practical pockets with or without zipper and stylish decor are other details that lift the look.

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Riding leggings

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Comfortable and flexible variant of riding breeches with elastic waistband and different grips.

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Full chaps

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More and more riders are realizing how easy it is to become ready for the horseback without having to change clothes. The opportunities for full chaps vary from being a coverall that keeps you clean when mucking and brushing in the stable, dry when riding out in the rain or snow and of course keeping you look good. You don't have to jump off to take them off. Sit comfortably in the saddle and just open the zippers along the legs and the adjustable belt at the waist.

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The classic materials are suede and nipple, but today there are also models in warm stretchy neoprene with silicone-cushioned knees for good grip and weather-resistant waterproof nylon that are both easy to carry and bring with you. If you find it difficult to find riding boots that fit, short chaps work well with riding shoes.

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Thermo pants

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This is the pants that makes it nice to ride out in the cold. Pull them on the riding breeches or over a pair of nice thermo leggings and enjoy the moment with the horse. Our thermo pants are fully cushioned to give the best grip in the saddle. It is lined, waterproof and breathable. The waist is elastic and the seams are taped. The zippers on the legs facilitate when you put them on and off. If you want a lighter version when you’re hanging on the stand or in the stable, try the cover up skirt. Stylish, practical and comfortable warming. Even when sitting on horseback, of course.

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Hööks always strives to manufacture premium quality products, and places high demands on quality. It is important to care for the products correctly to maximise their lifespan. Avoid washing textile products more often than necessary, as this can shorten their lifespan and also causes negative environmental impact.

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Technical clothing that is water-repellent / breathable

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Technical clothing should not be washed more often than necessary. However, it is worth bearing in mind that if technical materials get too dirty, they become less breathable and also less water-repellent. When washing the garments, follow their specific washing instructions carefully. Close Velcro fastenings, zips, buttons, etc. before washing to reduce wear. Do not use fabric conditioner on technical garments, as this reduces the garment's function and harms the environment.

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All technical garments gradually lose their water-repellent properties with both normal use and washing. If the water on the surface stops forming drops, you can reactivate the waterproofing by applying low heat to the garment, for instance using an iron or a tumble drier.

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If this treatment stops having an effect, we recommend that you restore the waterproofing. Use a waterproofing treatment that is free from fluorocarbons and follow the garment's washing instructions when applying the treatment.

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Synthetic material

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Most synthetic materials are relatively easy to care for and can be washed in an ordinary washing machine. Avoid washing the garments more often than necessary, to spare both the garment and the environment. Follow the washing instructions carefully and don't use fabric conditioner. Avoid tumble drying the garment if possible, but follow the recommendations in the washing instructions.

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Cotton

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When washing cotton products, always follow the garment's washing instructions and avoid using fabric conditioner. Not tumble drying your garments prolongs their lifespan and also saves energy.

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Wool

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Wool fibres are naturally dirt-repellent and antibacterial, and for this reason it's often enough to air your woollen garments to freshen them up. When washing wool, always follow the garment's washing instructions carefully since all woollen garments are not machine-washable. Avoid washing the garment at too high a temperature. If the garment is machine washable, use your washing machine's wool cycle. If woollen items are washed on a cycle that is too hard or vigorous, the wool can get matted and the garment can shrink. Don't use fabric conditioner when washing woollen garments, as it can damage the wool fibres.

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Waterproofing

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Hööks only uses water-repellent treatments that are free from fluorocarbons (PFCs). This is because PFCs are harmful both to people and the environment. The water-repellent properties gradually wear off with both washing and use. When this happens, we recommend that you restore the waterproofing. Use a waterproofing treatment that is free from fluorocarbons (PFC free), and follow the garment's washing instructions when applying the treatment.

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Horses are large and sensitive animals. If you take care to look over and check your horse every day, you can take care of minor ailments yourself. They do not have to develop into larger problems that require veterinary care. These are a few relatively common ailments that you can normally treat yourself, however, if you have any doubts whatsoever, call your veterinarian.

\\r\\n

Small wounds

\\r\\n

Smaller wounds that are not deep and do not bleed excessively enough to need sutures can be treated at home. Clean out the wound with soap and water or saline. Make sure to keep the wound edges clean and possible cut away the hairs around the wound to make it easier to keep clean. Apply a thin layer of some form of wound ointment or spray-on wound treatment to shield the wound from bacteria. Some wounds may need bandaging, if the horse has a damaged a heel bulb for example, you may want to apply a hoof bandage. This prevents dirt from getting into the wound.

\\r\\n

Mud fever

\\r\\n

Mud fever is a skin infection in the pastern. The skin of the horse's pastern is thin and delicate, and wounds may occur when the horse is walking in muddy or damp paddocks. When these wounds get infected it is called mud fever. The most important way to prevent mud fever is to keep the horse's legs as clean and dry as you can. If the horse gets mud fever, it is important to treat it carefully so that it does not spread up the leg. If the infection spreads to the lymphatic vessels, the horse may get lymphangitis. Lymphangitis is when the lymphatic vessels are unable to transport fluids away from the tissues, which means they stay in the limb, causing it to swell up.

\\r\\n

What you can do to treat mud fever:

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Horses that have had mud fever once will be more prone to get it again. It is therefore important to keep checking and keeping the pasterns clean.

\\r\\n

Thrush

\\r\\n

Thrush is a bacterial infection in the hoof. It normally occurs in the frog cleft, but may spread to other parts of the hoof as well. The hoof/frog turns soft and mushy and develops a bad smell. It is most often caused by poor hoof hygiene and the horse standing on a wet and dirty footing, but narrow hooves with deep frog clefts may also contribute.

\\r\\n

What you can do to treat thrush:

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Choke

\\r\\n

Choke is when the horse's oesophagus becomes obstructed. This may be caused by un-soaked beet pulp, large chunks of apple or just regular feed. The horse becomes very agitated, opens and closes its mouth, salivates heavily and you may see feed bits coming out the nostrils. Immediately remove all feed and carefully rub the left side of the jugular groove. Contact a veterinarian.

\\r\\n

To avoid choke, you can start by feeding your horse forage feed before you give it concentrate feed. If your horse has a great appetite, you may put a number of large stones in the manger, to stop it from wolfing down its food. Soaked feed may also be a way to prevent choke.

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Just like us, horses fall ill sometimes, and some are more susceptible to illness than others. Learn to read your horse's signs, that way you will quickly spot when something is wrong and provide treatment.

\\r\\n

Colic

\\r\\n

Colic is a general term for abdominal pain. If your horse suffers from colic, you will often notice that it is acting anxious, scraping its front hooves, lifting its hind hooves and looking at its abdomen, and that it lies down to roll repeatedly. If you suspect colic, remove all feed and try to get your horse to move around. Lead or lunge it lightly, this may get the intestines going. If the pain does not go away, or if your horse is suffering, do not hesitate to call a veterinarian. Before you make the call, if it is not an emergency, it may be helpful to check the heart rate/pulse, mucous membranes, bowel sounds (a quiet abdomen is not a good sign), temperature and droppings. If your horse is too anxious to take the pulse and temperature, you should leave it. The risk of an accident is too great.

\\r\\n

You may prevent colic by:

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Tying-up syndrome (or Exertional Rhabdomyolysis)

\\r\\n

Tying-up presents as the horse becoming stiff and unwilling to move, sweats, tenderness and palpitations in the muscles of the hind legs, a red tint of the urine as well as an increased breathing rate and pulse. A horse that is not regularly exercised/trained, or which gets the same food rations during rest periods and training runs a greater risk of suffering tying-up. Symptoms present when the horse starts working again after a period of rest. As soon as you suspect tying-up syndrome you should let the horse rest, put a rug on it and keep the muscles warm, offer it water and if it lies down, let it be and make its bed as soft as possible. Contact your veterinarian for advice and possibly treatment.

\\r\\n

You may prevent tying-up syndrome by:

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Founder (or Laminitis)

\\r\\n

Founder causes inflammation in the hooves, which is very painful. The horse will be reluctant to move, and the hooves will feel warm, especially the front hooves. You can also feel a stronger pulse by the fetlock.

\\r\\n

There are three known causes of founder:

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If you suspect that your horse suffers from founder, you should let it stand inside on a soft and dry floor, remove all concentrate feed, keep the legs cool and contact a veterinarian. It is of vital importance that your horse is seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

\\r\\n

Lameness

\\r\\n

A stumble can lead to a serious sprain, with symptoms like heat, swelling and lameness. Joints and tendons may be overexerted, which can cause lameness. Fractures are not very common in horses. The may be complex and therefore difficult to treat.

\\r\\n

If your horse becomes suddenly lame, start by checking the hoof to make sure nothing is stuck in it. Feel along the legs for heat, swelling or tenderness.

\\r\\n

If the horse is only slightly lame, let it rest and check for deterioration over a few days. If it gets worse, or if it is very lame and perhaps unwilling to stand on the leg, you need to contact a veterinarian.

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\\\"\\\"

The foaling season is now in full swing all over the country. If you are expecting a foal or are about to receive a foal in your stable, it is a good idea to keep an eye out for the common diseases which can affect them and for the symptoms which you should be alert to.

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Every year thousands of foals are born in Sweden and, nowadays, there are many horse owners whose eyes are glued to their surveillance camera in anticipation of the patter of foals' hooves in their stable. Both gestation and foaling go well most of the time and the foal born is a healthy, lively youngster. But not all the time – some of the most common ailments which can affect foals are septicaemia, constipation and angular limb deformities.

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\\\"Most types of diseases can appear already during the foal stage. We see three diagnoses that have a greater impact with recurring cases every year,\\\" says Karl-Henrik Heimdahl, horse vet at Agria Djurförsäkring.

\\r\\n

Septicaemia

Septicaemia is a bacterial infection which affects foals during their first weeks of life, when the foal's own antibodies do not provide full protection. The infection starts somewhere in the body as a joint infection, meningitis, pneumonia or diarrhoea and, in the worst case scenario, can develop into general blood poisoning, known as foal sepsis. The bacteria come through inhaled air, the mouth or via an infection of the navel. Septicaemia often has a rapid progression.

\\r\\n

Symptoms

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Treatment

\\r\\n

It is vital to initiate treatment quickly. Intensive medical care is often required, such as antibiotic treatment, plasma droplets with antibodies, but also surgical treatment may be necessary.

\\r\\n

Meconium constipation

\\r\\n

The foal should pass its meconium within 12 hours of birth - otherwise, this will lead to constipation and the foal will get colic. Meconium is dark in colour and often comes out as small hard stools.

\\r\\n

Symptoms

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Treatment

\\r\\n

Always contact your vet for advice, but if you notice the problem early, it can often be resolved by administering Microlax or a similar product.

\\r\\n

 

\\r\\n

 

\\r\\n

Angular limb deformities

\\r\\n

This often affects premature foals, foals which are not growing normally or which were in the wrong position in the womb. Foals can have different types of angular limb deformities.

\\r\\n

Symptoms

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Treatment

\\r\\n

In mild cases, the condition can resolve itself spontaneously. If treatment is required, it is important to carry it out promptly before the growth plates close. Consult a vet and expert farrier.

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

The horse is a herd and prey animal, meaning its herd mentality is very important, and this is something we can use to our advantage by becoming part of the herd, i.e., becoming its leader.

\\r\\n

The fact that the horse is a prey animal means that it would rather flee when it is frightened. The flight instinct of the horse is very strong, and you need to be aware of this in order to handle the horse as safely as possible.

\\r\\n

Being a leader does not mean that you have to be tough and severe, but that you should be clear, determined and consistent in order to earn the horse's trust. If the horse sees you as a calm and secure leader, who signals that everything is OK, you can get the horse to calmly inspect and accept things that frightened it at first. Never punish a frightened horse, this only reinforces the unpleasant experience and creates a bigger problem than you were perhaps dealing begin with.

\\r\\n

The horse has extremely acute senses.

\\r\\n

Sight

\\r\\n

Since the horse's eyes are positioned on either side of its head, it has a very wide field of vision, however, its eyes are not very sharp.  This makes it easy for the horse to discover danger, both from afar and up close, in different directions. This can be compared to, say, a lion, which is a predator: its eyes are placed in the middle of the face and they have very sharp eyes, which enables them to focus on its prey and take it down.

\\r\\n

Smell

\\r\\n

Horses have a very well-developed sense of smell. We can see this, for example, in how a mare can recognise her foal based on its scent, or in how a horse reacts to a new ingredient in its feed before it has even tasted it. The sense of smell is also a way for horses to communicate, and they often have a quick nose-to-nose when meeting each other. If you meet a new horse, it is not unusual that it will sniff you for a good while to find out who you are. Many times, their sense of smell will alert the horse to danger and predators in the wild, which allows them to get to safety and survive. In windy conditions, the horse will have more trouble distinguishing different scents, and this may cause it to be more anxious and prone to flight as its instincts are telling it that they will not be able to smell danger on time. 

\\r\\n

Taste

\\r\\n

Taste is intimately related to smell. If you want to introduce your horse to something new, it may be a good idea to start by the new flavour. This may come in handy  if you have a horse that does not want to drink at competitions because the water tastes different. In that case you could get your horse used to you putting apple-cider vinegar in the water, which makes it taste more similar at home and away.

\\r\\n

Hearing

\\r\\n

The horse has an acute sense of hearing and it can perceive both higher and lower pitches than us humans. It can move its ears independently, allowing it to catch and localise sounds coming from different directions. The ears are also used to communicate if the horse is curious, frightened or angry.

\\r\\n

Touch

\\r\\n

The horse is the most sensitive around the head, and it uses the tactile hairs around the muzzle and eyes to compensate for its limited forward vision. The tactile hairs on the muzzle/lips also allow the horse to distinguish between food and other things. You must never remove these hairs.

\\r\\n

You have probably figured out that horses have sensitive skin, seeing for example how they react to a fly landing on them. This is something that you should remember when handling the horse, sometimes we may be using excessive force when a simple push would suffice.

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Good and healthy horsekeeping is based on your knowledge of what is best for your horse. This is especially true when it comes to feeding, exercise and daily care.

\\r\\n

If you keep your horse in stables, they must meet the requirements and recommendations set by the Swedish Board of Agriculture, including certain measurements for boxes and stalls, headroom etc., which are obligatory. The stable environment must be sound; the horse must not be exposed to drafts, dampness, dust or noise. You must ensure that the horse has a dry and comfortable bed to stand/lie in. If your house is in loose housing, it must have some form of protection that it can step into to get away from the elements. If the horse is also outside during winter, you must provide a dry and clean bed.

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The horse must have a good and balanced diet, and unless it has free access to food, it must be feed at least three, and preferably more, times a day. The horse must have free access to water.

\\r\\n

If the horse is kept in stables, it should be  released into a paddock every day. It should also be given a chance to go outside or have contact with other horses. The paddock should ideally contain something for the horse to occupy itself with, such as a ball or a few birch twigs, in case your horse gets bored. The fences must be set up so that the horse cannot injure itself on them; any electrical wires must be well-stretched, and barbed wire must not be used.

\\r\\n

Horses need to move around, and it is important that you give them plenty of varied exercise to give them a chance to develop their muscles, strength and stamina as well as to release energy.

\\r\\n

The horse must have daily supervision, even when it is on summer pasture. You must ensure that the horse is healthy and well. If you set up a good routine when it comes to all the work relating to the horse, you will get a happy and harmonious horse – and an amazing relationship!

\\r\\n

Spara

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

The more time you spend with your horse, the quicker you will be to discover if something is wrong.
Signs that your horse is not well could be that it does not finish its food, that it does not drink enough, that it appears anxious and rolls around on the floor, or that it looks generally lethargic and unkempt.

\\r\\n

There are a few good guidelines to follow if you suspect that your horse is unwell. To know what is normal for your horse, you must learn what it is like when it is healthy.

\\r\\n

Temperature

\\r\\n

The normal body temperature of a horse should be between 37.0 and 38.2 degrees (C). To find out what is the normal for your horse, you should take its temperature a few days in a row, preferably at the same time of day, for example in the morning.

\\r\\n

Pulse

\\r\\n

The horse will normally have a pulse between 28-40 beats per minute. The easiest way to check the pulse is through the blood vessel that runs along the bottom of the mandible or down by the fetlock

\\r\\n

Breathing

\\r\\n

The horse will normally take between 8-16 breaths per minute.

\\r\\n

Mucous membranes

\\r\\n

The horse's mucous membranes should be light pink; lift its upper lip to check.

\\r\\n

Dehydration

\\r\\n

If you pinch the skin of the horse's neck and pull outwards, it should go back down in a few seconds when you let go. If it takes longer, it may be an indication that your horse is dehydrated.

\\r\\n

Bowel sounds

\\r\\n

Place your ear against the abdomen, in the back towards the flank, and normally you should hear the intestines (gurgling sound), more clearly and louder on the left side.

\\r\\n

Droppings

\\r\\n

Has the horse urinated and defecated, and if so, does it look normal or are the droppings unusually loose, for example?

\\r\\n

If your horse has any values outside of its normal range, you should let it rest. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian to consult with them about possible treatment.

\\r\\n

This should be in your stable first-aid kit

\\r\\n\\r\\n

Spara

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

The horse is a herbivore, and in the wild it will spend 16-18 hours per day grazing. Unless the horse spends all its time in pasture, we have to feed it.

\\r\\n

There are different types of feed that can be used: forage feeds, concentrate feeds, wet feed, minerals and vitamins. You have to distribute feedings as evenly over the day as you can, and feed your horse on at least three, but preferably more, occasions per day.

\\r\\n

Remember that if you are unsure, or need help understanding the contents analyses, it is always best to contact a feed expert.

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Roughage

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The roughage is the horse's most important feed, and the one you should give it the most of.

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Hay, haylage and ensilage are common types of forage feeds that you can give your horse. The hay should be should be green with plenty of leaves, and free from dust and mould. When you calculate the amount to give your horse, estimate at least 1 kg of dry substance per 100 kg horse and day*. Since the hay contains a small amount of water, you normally count 1.2 kg of hay/100 kg horse and day. A simple way to calculate the body weight of your horse is to use a weight band to measure its girth. This will tell you the weight of the horse.

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To make sure the horse gets all the nutrition it needs, it is important to have its forage feed analysed, and to calculate an appropriate ration accordingly. A good forage feed may enough on its own, unless you have a colt, a pregnant or lactating mare, or a horse in hard training. However, if your forage feed is somehow lacking in nutrients, you have to supplement it with a concentrate feed. There is a number of different concentrate feeds, which have varying contents and thereby varying effects. ,

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It is important to remember that a bale of haylage/ensilage will eventually go bad as the bale's preservatives stop functioning. How long this takes depends on factors such as temperature, dry substance and bale size.

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Concentrate feeds

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The concentrate feed is a supplement, and which one you should choose depends greatly on the contents analysis of your hay, your horse and what you do with it. Is your horse energetic or lazy, does it have trouble gaining weight, is it a little chubby, does it work hard, is it a growing colt, is it pregnant or lactating? There are lots of factors to consider!

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Examples of concentrate feed include oats, barely, wheat bran and different forms of ready-made mixes, some in pellet form.

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Wet feed

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Beet pulp and carrots are two examples of wet feed. Beet pulp is a by-product from sugar production. It contains a lot of sugar, which provides energy and gives a nice coat. Beet pulp may also be a good way to help the horse's digestion. It must always be soaked and allowed to swell properly before being fed to the horse, otherwise it entails a great risk of choke and colic. Carrots contain carotene, which is then converted into A vitamin. Carrots can be given in fresh or dried form. If you give your horse dried carrots, these too should be soaked for a good while before feeding.

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Minerals, vitamins and salts

\\r\\n

By conducting a feed analysis, you will find out if and how much you need to supplement the feed ration with vitamins and minerals to make it complete. Salt is a substance that the horse needs continuously, the amount varies depending on exertion and heat. The horse should therefore always have access to a salt lick.

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Water

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The horse must have free access to water, and it can drink up to 50 litres per day. If the horse has an automatic water drinker, it is important to make sure it has a good water flow; at least 6 litres per minute. If it fills too slowly, the horse might give up before it has actually had the amount that it needs. In general, horses will prefer water buckets to drinkers, and drink more from these, but it is more work filling the bucket(s) and making sure the horse always has water. If the horse does not have free access to water, there is a great risk of colic and obstruction. 

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All horses get intestinal parasites, but most often they will not pose any threat to their health, unless they occur in great amounts. Foals and young horses get parasites to a greater extent, while older horses have often built up an immunity against them. To find out whether your horse is heavily contaminated, you need to send a dung sample from the horse to a laboratory such as Vidilab's kollamasken.

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The optimal time to send samples is in April-May. This allows you time for any necessary deworming before the summer pasture, thus avoiding further contamination. If your horse is infested with several parasites, you may also take a follow-up sample around 14 days after the deworming. Another good time to take a sample is in September-October, before the horse returns to the stable.

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All deworming drug treatments for horses require a prescription. This is due to the fact that many parasites have become, or risks becoming, resistant to the existing drugs. If your horse turns out to have parasites, you should contact your veterinarian for advice and a prescription for a suitable drug treatment.

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These are few of the most common parasites:

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Large and small redworm

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Live in the large intestine of the horse. In greater amounts, they may cause colic, diarrhoea and weight-loss Deworming is most effective in spring.

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Large roundworm

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Lives in the small intestine, and most often only occurs in foals. Poor growth, decreased appetite and colic may be symptoms of infection. Foals should be treated for large roundworm at 8 and 16 weeks.

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Tapeworm

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Lives in the junction between the small and large intestines. Colic and constipation of the cecum may occur in the event larger amounts of the parasite. Deworming is most effective in spring.

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Bots

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The botflies lay their eggs primarily on the front legs of the horse in the summer. When the horse uses its mouth to scratch its legs, it gets larvae in its mouth, which later travel to the stomach where they stay over the winter. Large amounts can cause colic and inflammation. Deworming is most effective in the autumn, but the best thing is to remove all the eggs from the horse's legs before it eats them.

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Some common vaccinations

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Equine influenza (horse flu)

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Equine influenza is divided into two subtypes; A1 and A2 These occur throughout the year and they are highly contagious. The symptoms include a high fever, coughing and nasal discharge. You should vaccinate your horse against influenza. If you want to compete, you must have a valid vaccination to participate in any competition. Keep track of how often your horse needs its shots, and check the competition rules to make sure you live up to them. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian.

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Tetanus

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Tetanus is caused by a bacteria found, for example, in dirt. Infected wounds most often arise as the result of a puncture wound in the hoof or in another place. The poison that builds up affects the nervous system, making the horse stiff and giving it trouble swallowing. The mortality rate is high, and vaccination is therefore to be recommended.

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Botulism

\\r\\n

If you feed your horse haylage or ensilage, you may want to vaccinate it against botulism, however, check with your veterinarian first. Clostridium botulinum is bacteria that produces a neurotoxin; botulinum toxin, which is lethal to horses. The bacteria may form in the feed if dirt or dead animals have been wrapped in with the hay bale. This places high demands on both harvesting and storage to achieve good results.

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Spara

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Horses are intelligent animals that are very capable of learning. But all horses are wild inside and have a natural flight instinct, something you should always be conscious of when training with them.

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\\\"As with all animal training, you need to find the animal's motivation if you want to teach it anything. You also need patience,\\\" says Jenny Yngvesson, a researcher and teacher of aetiology, animal protection and animal welfare at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences (SLU).

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\\\"I regard horses as wild horses. Whether it's a harness racing horse or a Shetland pony, all horses are wild on the inside. For this reason, anyone who deals with horses must be aware that they are herd animals, have a flight instinct and need to eat grass practically all the time. This are the things that motivate horses,\\\" says Jenny. She explains that all animals with a flight instinct are afraid of things, and this fear negatively affects their learning ability.

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\\\"If you want to teach a horse something new, it mustn't be afraid as that's a bad starting point. Also, anyone who wants to train animals needs knowledge of the animal's learning process. You need to understand the difference between positive and negative reinforcement.\\\"

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While some horses clearly show their fear, others are harder to read.

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\\\"Some rear their head, show the whites of their eyes, flare their nostrils and snort to warn the other horses in the herd. Others are more discreet, until they have a sudden explosive reaction. The maximum sign of fear is panic and bolting.\\\"

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\\\"Horses aren't stupid\\\"

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Fear of thing and situations can be trained away. One important thing to understand is something a horse is not afraid of in its home surroundings might frighten it at a competition or at the stables.

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\\\"A horse may need to repeatedly be taught the same thing in different places. This isn't because horses are stupid; it's something that has helped them survive for millions of years. They've adapted to life as horses. So don't lose patience.\\\"

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Unlike cows, for instance, which have horns, horses have no natural defence weapons so tend to run away if they feel threatened.

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\\\"They might kick, but fleeing is their best defence. Again, they're not stupid. They run first and think later because this has been their most successful survival tactic for millions of years,\\\" explains Jenny.

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Turn negative into positive

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A frightened horse can be calmed down, and Jenny has some useful tips to share in this respect.

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\\\"You can turn a negative reaction into a positive one. This is called counter-conditioning and means that the horse learns to associate something frightening with something positive, thereby inducing a positive reaction to the thing that originally frightened it. For instance, you might get out the horse lick along with the horse clippers. Say your horse is afraid of umbrellas. Have one person hold the horse and another person hold the umbrella. When an umbrella is opened, a horse often initially reacts by rearing its head. If this happens, the person holding the umbrella can back slightly. Lead the horse slowly towards the umbrella while the person holding the umbrella continues moving backwards. Finally, have the horse nuzzle the umbrella. When it does, give it a treat to eat. This turns a negative reaction into a positive one. If a horse refuses one of its favourite treats, this means it is very frightened, so make sure to back away before the flight reaction kicks in,\\\" says Jenny, and suggests learning to take a horse's pulse.

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\\\"This helps you gauge how frightened it actually is. The easiest place to take a horse's pulse is under its chin near the throat, or inside its front leg near the knee.\\\"

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Stop before triggering the flight instinct

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Is your horse afraid of being transported? It's not alone.

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\\\"It's natural for horses to be afraid of travelling, although not all of them make a fuss about it. If your horse is afraid of the horse transporter, don't start training it on the morning you need to leave. Start maybe a month in advance by bringing the horse close to the transporter. Next, take it right up to the transporter. Then go a little way in and slowly and steadily take it further inside.

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It can also help to have an older horse that is used to travelling present during the training.

\\r\\n

\\\"You can train the fear out of an anxious horse if you are willing to spend time on it. Don't be discouraged or lose patience. And make sure you never push the horse far enough to trigger its flight instinct. Stop before that happens.

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Take control of yourself

\\r\\n

Is it true that horses pick up on the rider's mood and emotional state? Jenny explains:

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\\\"There isn't much research on this subject, but some studies suggest that if your pulse increases, the horse's pulse may also increase. Like many animals, we can become tense. We can sense when an animal is tense, and they can sense it in us.\\\" Horses can probably also read certain human facial expressions.

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It's useful to take a deep breath and exhale slowly.

\\r\\n

\\\"This makes you relax, which will help make the horse calmer. You need to take control of yourself and signal that it's time to calm down. Because we are in such close contact with the horse when riding, it is very sensitive to our signals. The slightest tension can be felt through the reigns and in our thighs. Although we can't control our impulsive reactions, if something frightens you it's vital to quickly regain control of yourself.\\\"

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\\r\\n

Are you in a bad mood? Skip the riding session

\\r\\n

Some studies also suggest that horses become harder to manage if someone has a negative attitude towards them.

\\r\\n

\\\"Study participants who didn't like horses had more difficulty controlling the horse. So if you feel angry, irritated and impatient, you probably won't be able to anything advanced with the horse on that day. Things will be difficult and could even get dangerous. So it might be best to just brush your horse and ride it another day. Personally, I think if we're having problems, rather than blaming the horse we should first examine our own behaviour.\\\"

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\\r\\n

Meet Jenny Yngvesson

\\r\\n

Jenny's basic training is in aetiology/zoology and biology. Since the 1990s, she has continued to study animal behaviour at Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences. She has mainly conducted research on farm animals such as cows, pigs and hens, and has loved horses since childhood. Her interest in animals in general and horses in particular lead her to start doing equestrian research. Her first study was of horse injuries, and aimed to ascertain what behavioural characteristics make certain horses prone to injuring themselves on fences, hooks, buckets, gratings etc. Today she is leading a project that compares Swedish riding schools with a free-range setup to schools with boxes and stalls. The project is scheduled for completion in summer of 2018. Jenny's regular job is as a researcher and lecturer in aetiology, animal protection and animal welfare at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences.

\\r\\n

In her free time, she enjoys training her young North Swedish horse in horse driving and riding.

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Tips from Jenny 

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Habituation and counter-conditioning

\\r\\n

Something you need to know about is habituation, which means training a horse to stop reacting negatively to something that it previously found frightening. For example, horses that were afraid of cows can be trained to stop having this reaction by bringing the horse into a field next to a field with cows, since the horse gradually learns that nothing bad will happen. Although habituation can be used for training horses, it is important not to push the horse too much or progress too quickly.

\\r\\n

A quicker method for getting horses used to something they find frightening is counter-conditioning. This means training the horse to associate something frightening with something pleasurable. For instance, if a horse is afraid of horse clippers, you can give it a treat when it accepts being close to the clippers. Gradually increase your requirements. Start by giving it a treat when the clippers are in operation. Next, give it a treat while pretending to use the clippers with the motor switched off, and so forth

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Back on Track products feature modern, scientific textile technology, based on unique combinations of reflective minerals that are melted into the fabric. The natural minerals catch the natural warmth from your body and transform it into long-wave infrared energy, which is then reflected back to your skin, joints and muscles. Humans and animals radiate body heat both at rest and during activity, so the products can be used whenever is most convenient.

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The value of the energy reflected and stored by the fabric is known as the emissivity value. The level of emissivity is adapted to each product as well as its application area in order to achieve the best balance and the desired effect. The amount of radiation that a fabric gives off is affected by the minerals chosen and their composition. Back on Track products have excellent breathability. This prevents heat being trapped or insulated – it is the infrared energy that provides the effect.

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The natural infrared energy is known to boost blood circulation and promote the production of nitric oxide in blood vessels. Perfect for recovery or to loosen up tense muscles. The effect can be experienced in different ways. Some individuals feel a warm sensation, but the feeling varies. The results of using the product also vary between individuals.

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How to use the product

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When you start using Back On Track

\\r\\n

Our products should be introduced gradually to allow the body to get used to their effect. Use the product for a maximum of 4 hours on the first 2-3 days, then gradually increase the duration by one hour at a time.

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After the introduction period

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After the introduction period, use the products for a minimum of 8 hours per day, preferably even longer. After a few hours of use, a beneficial effect is achieved on tense muscles and stiff joints. It can take 10-20 days before maximum results are achieved. 

\\r\\n

After this, you should use the product in the way you feel is most effective. For instance, you might find it effective to use the product for a longer period and then take a break. Alternatively, you can try using it for a shorter period of a few hours a day during activity, or during the night. 

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If you notice the effect subsiding after a period of use, it can help to take a break from using the product. After this neutralisation period, you can reintroduce the product.

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Initial reactions to the products

\\r\\n

The increased blood flow can cause some people to experience irritation, swelling or soreness in the problem area during the initial period of use. The reaction is individual and varies from person to person. 

\\r\\n

Horses and dogs may also experience an initial reaction. Pay attention to your animal's behaviour and reactions when using the products.

\\r\\n

The initial reaction or swelling may occur after just an hour or two of use. In the event of discomfort, stop using the product for the rest of the day. Then try introducing the product gradually over the following days. 

\\r\\n

Good to know

\\r\\n

Humans and animals radiate body heat both at rest and during activity, so the products can be used whenever is most convenient. The effect is greatest during activity when the body temperature rises and the reflection becomes stronger. 

\\r\\n

Our products work best in direct contact with the skin, but they also work with a thin layer of fabric underneath.

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Only use the product according to the instructions and consult your doctor if symptoms persist. If you are undergoing medical treatment, consult your doctor if you unsure how the product could affect your treatment. 

\\r\\n

Do not use when pregnant. 

\\r\\n

Caution is recommended when using with ointments, etc., which may enhance the effect. 

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About the technologies

\\r\\n

Welltex®

\\r\\n

Welltex® is Back On Track's first and most renowned technology. Welltex® has the highest emissivity value (reflection of long-wave infrared energy), making it ideal for preparation and recovery.

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Iontex®

\\r\\n

Iontex® technology has the same basic concept as Welltex® and is developed for products made of lightweight and highly elastic fabrics. The minerals in Iontex® are antibacterial and quick-drying and can increase endurance.

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Haematex™

\\r\\n

Haematex™ is a high-tech material used for sportswear, containing minerals that reuse the body's natural energy. Products with Haematex™ provide excellent support and a comfortable feeling of compression. Maximum breathability and high moisture control.

\\r\\n

Cool on Track™

\\r\\n

Cool on Track™ is specially developed to keep dogs cool in all situations. Made of high-tech material that effectively keeps your dog cool by allowing water to evaporate.

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TIPS & TRICKS
how to care for your shoes!

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THINGS TO BEAR IN MIND...

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USE YOUR SHOES CORRECTLY
The harsh environment in a stable can damage the leather in your footwear and the glue on the soles. For this reason, we don't recommend using riding boots or shoes in the stable. Instead, we recommend you use rubber boots or clean your shoes or boots thoroughly after each use.
 
USE THE RIGHT PRODUCT FOR THE MATERIAL
Always use the shoe care product recommended, as it is specially designed to be used for the material in your shoes. Certain materials, such as suede and nubuck, are delicate and require specific care.
 
NEW SHOES
Bear in mind that new shoes do not provide adequate protection against dirt and water. Treat new shoes with a suitable waterrproofing or conditioning product before first use and then at regular intervals. This will prolong their lifespan.
 
ZIPS NEED CARE TOO
Clean the zip with a small brush and dry as necessary. If a zip gets stuck, never force it. Instead, remove any mud or sand. Open the zip all the way before putting on your shoes or boots, to avoid damaging it.
 
REPLACE INSOLES REGULARLY
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Insoles not only improve comfort and fit but also absorb moisture, which helps to keep both your feet and shoes healthy.

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BOOT STRETCHER

\\r\\n
Always use a boot stretcher or boot hanger. This protects the leather and zips while helping to maintain the shape of the boot shaft and preventing it from creasing.
 
ON AND OFF
Always use a shoehorn to put your boots on. This prolongs the life of the heel cap. Use a boot jack to take them off.
 
Take good care of your shoes and boots to prolong their lifespan.
When leather is cared for correctly, its appearance will often improve with age.
 
\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n\\r\\n
 \\r\\n

CLEANING

\\r\\n
LeatherRemove dirt with a shoe brush and use an appropriate product such as leather soap to treat stubborn stains.
Oiled leatherRemove dirt with a shoe brush and use leather soap or another appropriate product where necessary.
Synthetic leatherRemove dirt with a shoe brush and use a cloth with a mild soap solution where necessary
Patent leatherUse a lotion or spray designed for cleaning patent leather.
NubuckBuff with a suede brush or a buffing block. Pay extra attention to stains, salt marks and shiny areas.
Mixed materials
tex-materials
Remove dirt with a shoe brush and use a cleaning product appropriate for the material.
  
 \\r\\n

CARE

\\r\\n
LeatherTreat with leather conditioner or shoe polish. Natural or a matching colour. Allow to dry for 15 minutes, then brush the product into the leather. Buff with a polishing cloth for a deep shine.
Oiled leatherTreat with oil, leather conditioner or spray. This gives the oil a newly oiled finish and also protects and waterproofs it. Note that this treatment will darken the appearance of light-coloured leather.
Synthetic leatherUse a buffing sponge to improve the shine. Use shoe polish or instant shine polish to restore the colour.
Patent leatherUse a lotion or spray designed for cleaning patent leather.
NubuckUse an appropriate polish to restore and waterproof your shoes. Allow the polish dry for 10 minutes, then rough up the surface with a suede brush.
Mixed materials
tex-materials
Use a product appropriate for the outer material.
  
 \\r\\n

PROTECT

\\r\\n
LeatherUse a waterproofing spray for a water-repellent surface. Treat leather outersoles with an appropriate waterproofing product, or have the shoes or boots resoled.
Oiled leatherUse a waterproofing spray to improve their resistance to water.
Synthetic leatherUse a waterproofing spray appropriate for synthetic materials.
Patent leatherDo not use waterproofing spray on patent leather shoes.
NubuckApply waterproofing spray, allow to dry and then fluff up the surface with a suede brush. Repeat as necessary. Allow to dry between treatments.
Mixed materials
tex-materials
Use waterproofing spray.
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The Mips system is designed to provide added safety for helmets in many accidents. For certain impacts, the Mips system can reduce harmful rotational motion that might otherwise be transferred to the user’s head.

\\r\\n


How does the Mips system work

\\r\\n

Should you have an accident and hit your head, the Mips system in your helmet is designed to help reduce the rotational motion of certain impacts that may otherwise be transferred to your head.

\\r\\n

Rotational motion is a common cause of concussions and more severe brain injury in oblique hits to the head. The Mips system consists of a low friction layer that is mounted inside the helmet. In a crash, the low friction layer is designed to move slightly inside the helmet to help redirect forces away from the head. This is intended to help reduce the risk of brain injury.

\\r\\n

 

\\r\\n

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3lcoUoMSfA

\\r\\n




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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

The latest addition to our team of sponsored riders is the successful dressage rider Carl Hedin. With almost 300,000 followers on Instagram and an impressive collection of medals, including team gold at the Swedish Championships, he is an influential figure on social media and in the dressage arena.

\\r\\n

Carl lives at Särö Stable south of Gothenburg where he has around a dozen horses of different ages in work.

\\\"They range from three-year-olds to Grand Prix horses,\\\" says Carl.

\\r\\n

It's no coincidence that the horses Carl rides are often highly successful. He has a genuine interest in horses' behaviour and spends a lot of time learning to understand them in detail. For Carl, good horsemanship, where you develop a positive relationship with your horse, is just as important as conventional ridden training.

\\\"I've always been really interested in ethology, which is the study of animal behaviour. It's something that has influenced my entire career as a dressage rider,\\\" says Carl.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Of course, to get as far as Carl Hedin has done takes thousands of hours of training and hard work. He spends a big part of the day with his horses, but there are also other animals in his life, which often appear on his Instagram account.

\\\"When I'm not riding, I hang out with my dog Iris. She's always with me,\\\" says Carl.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n



\\r\\n

Below are Carl's favourite products from Hööks:

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Emma lives with her family on a farm outside Borås where she also keeps her horses. Emma competes for Borås riding club and has done since she started her competition career at the age of seven.

\\r\\n

\\\"Ever since I was small, Hööks has been there supporting my career. I joined their team of sponsored riders in 2019,\\\" says Emma.

\\r\\n

Elm Rose, who Emma has owned for almost four years, has been a loyal servant to her. He is 12 years old and is the horse that has taken Emma to where she is today. Together they have competed in the Swedish Championships, the European Championships, Grands Prix, Nations Cup competitions and showjumping classes up to 1.45 m. Among other things, she won the Arena Youth Tour 1.45 m class with Elm Rose in Kungsbacka in the spring of 2021 against tough competition.

\\r\\n

The cheeky teddy bear on the yard is Nouveau, who is always full of mischief and likes a lot of attention. He is an eleven-year-old gelding and he loves competing in big arenas and being in the spotlight. He has competed at Elmia, Scandinavium, Falsterbo, the Swedish Championships, the Nordic Championships and on Nations Cup teams and at many other major competitions.

\\r\\n

\\\"Nouveau has a heart of gold. He's a real fighter who always wants to do his best,\\\" says Emma.

\\r\\n

Another horse on the yard is Carolin, who has been with the Johansson family for just over a year. She is ten years old and a very talented showjumper.

\\r\\n

\\\"I've competed up to 1.45 m with her and she also qualified for the Gothenburg Horse Show in 2020,\\\" explains Emma.

\\r\\n

Then there is Juliebellie, whose stable name is Jullan. She is a mischievous little six-year-old with a positive attitude who is dreaming of life as a competition horse. Despite her young age and her short career so far, she has already competed at both Falsterbo and Elmia. As a five-year-old, she was already jumping up to 1.25 m and now she is moving up to the bigger classes.

\\r\\n

Emma's final star is Mecca, a nine-year-old mare. She was bred in Sweden and is new to Emma's team. In only four competitions with Emma, she has jumped clear and been placed in 1.40 m classes.

\\r\\n



\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Below are Emma's favourite products from Hööks:

\\r\\n
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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Robin Ingvarsson lives in Borås and produces and competes horses from his parents-in-law's farm at Tosseryd. He also rides for his uncle Sven Ingvarsson in Kungsbacka.

\\r\\n

When Robin was only ten years old, he won the Swedish Pony Showjumping Championships. This was followed by many other titles, including gold medals in the Swedish Championships as a junior, young rider and senior. His most recent gold medal in the championships was in 2016 and this led to him competing on the national team.

\\r\\n

Horses that Robin has produced have caught the eye of other well-known riders. He has sold three horses to none other than Peder Fredricson. One of them, Christian K, was the showjumper with the highest winnings in the world in 2019. Another, Hansson, was ranked as the world's best showjumper in 2018.

\\r\\n

Although Robin naturally spends most of his time with his horses, he still finds time for other interests, including weight training, padel and golf.

\\r\\n

Robin Ingvarsson and Hööks have been working together since 2017.

\\r\\n



\\r\\n

Below are Robin's favourite products from Hööks:

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Viktoria Carlerbäck lives on a farm, Stall Stora Bygd, outside Borås with her horses. She also runs her training business from here and has been working with Hööks for many years.

\\r\\n

\\\"I don't know how many years it's been, but I've been to a lot of photo shoots,\\\" says Viktoria.

\\r\\n

Her list of achievements includes competing at two European Championships, two World Championships and one Olympic Games. She has also won a leg of the Eventing World Cup and been placed at Badminton, both with Ballys Geronimo. With Volt Af Källstorp she won the Swedish Championships in 2012 and 2014. Zlatan B won the title in 2016 and this year was part of the winning Eventing Nations Cup team.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Viktoria has several horses on the yard that she competes. The oldest is Zlatan B (2004 Indorado – Haarlem).

\\r\\n

\\\"I've had him since he was five. He's a 167 cm bay gelding and he's been placed at CCI4*-L, 1.40 m showjumping and affiliated dressage. He's a lovely horse with a wonderful attitude, but he can be difficult to hack out because he is tense and spooky,\\\" says Viktoria.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Freckenham Ted xx is a twelve-year-old thoroughbred with placings at CCI3*-S and in 1.30 m showjumping classes in 2019.

\\r\\n

\\\"He's fast, but also a bit lazy when it comes to dressage. He can get cross with the other horses on the lorry, but he is the world's cuddliest horse with people. He is bay and about 163 cm. I'm aiming to take him up a level in eventing during the year,\\\" says Viktoria.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Avicii is six years old.

\\r\\n

\\\"Vicke has been with us for almost six months and has competed at 90 cm level in eventing and jumped clear round 1.20 m showjumping tracks. He jumps for fun and moves really well. He needs plenty of canter work to get him fit and perhaps make him a bit leaner,\\\" she goes on.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Vallös Balotelli is rising five and will soon start his competitive career. He is leggy and has a big canter stride, so it will take him a while to learn to balance himself.

\\r\\n

\\\"He enjoys hacking out and has a wonderful attitude. He loves everyone and will make an exciting project. He's a Dutch Warmblood and his breeding is Baccarat xx-Aquilino,\\\" says Viktoria.

\\r\\n

\\\"When I'm not riding, I work as the head coach of the Swedish junior and young riders eventing team. I'm also an equestrian sport instructor at Sven Eriksonsgymnasiet secondary school in Borås. I hold clinics at home and at other venues and I'm a fully qualified elite trainer,\\\" says Viktoria.

\\r\\n

\\\"In my spare time I enjoy gardening. I grow a lot of things in my garden and greenhouse,\\\" she explains.

\\r\\n
\\r\\n



\\r\\n

Below are Viktoria's favourite products from Hööks:

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\\\"\\\"

\\r\\n

Training tips for riders

\\r\\n

Do you feel a little rusty, stiff or just want to feel better? Check out our tips on how to stay in good shape both on and off horseback.

\\r\\n


Yoga strengthens your body awareness and is a type of training that all riders, beginners as well as professionals, should work more on. Because when you are really aware of what your body is doing, you can influence your riding in a controlled way. Then you give the signals you actually mean and in this way you make it easier for the horse and increase your team spirit.
Check out Yinyoga and yanyoga, examples of yoga that benefit you as a rider. Focus on the exercises that you need. Yinyoga is a kind of stretching that creates stillness and conscious presence where the positions are usually held for 3-7 minutes. Yanyoga is the opposite of yin yoga, a more dynamic, active type of yoga that builds strength, increases mobility and agility.

If you want better endurance, classic cardio training such as running, swimming and cycling are good options. During cardio training, you should reach a maximum heart rate of 60-70% and keep that heart rate for at least 30 minutes. You know you are at the right heart rate level when it feels a little strenuous to talk during exercise. Alternate with interval training and strength training. There are many good outdoor gyms where you can train your equestrian muscles. Here is an exercise that you can also do at home.

\\r\\n

Balance

\\r\\n


The balance is of course important for riders. Here's a simple tip on how to quickly put in a balancing act pretty much anywhere, anytime. But preferably every day. For best effect, do the exercise in the stocking or barefoot.

• Rest your right foot against the inside of the calf - place your palms facing each other in front of your chest - stretch your arms (still with your palms facing each other) upwards as far as you can - stay that way or spread your arms to a V - lower and relax your shoulders - raise look at the ceiling (or look straight ahead if it feels better) - stand still and count slowly to 20 (or as far as feels comfortable).Now repeat with left foot towards the inside of the calf etc. If you want to simplify, you can have the heel against the ankle and the toe in the ground. Do you want to complicate, close your eyes.

\\r\\n

Hollow

\\r\\n


Hollow position is a full body exercise with a focus on the core muscles (back and abdomen). Lie on the ground / floor with your body outstretched - lift your shoulder blades and legs a little above the floor - keep your arms at your sides or let them rest on your body - your crotch and buttocks should remain against the floor. Hold this bowl-like position for about 15-20 seconds or longer. Relax and repeat as many times as you can.

\\r\\n

Breathe

\\r\\n


If you feel stressed when you get to the stable or nervous before the competition, try Nadi Shodhana, a breathing exercise that helps you relax and get better focus.
• Use your right thumb and middle finger: start by taking a couple of calm, fairly deep breaths - before exhaling at the second breath, close your right nostril with your thumb and exhale slowly through your left nostril - hold your thumb and then inhale slowly through your left nostril - before exhaling close the left nostril with your middle finger and exhale slowly through the right - then inhale slowly through your right nostril before closing it again and exhale slowly through the left etc.Continue to switch nostrils this way for five to ten minutes. Feel free to repeat several times a day if you have the opportunity.

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Agility is a fantastic sport that can be practised at all levels, from fun and recreation to full precision in championship events. You set the level yourself, and having a variety of obstacles at home is a good start. The obstacles should be firmly positioned and the tunnel should be fixed to the ground.
It's best to start out with an instructor so you learn all the important basics, both with regard to acquiring skills and preventing accidents. Always consult an expert before starting the exercises. Happy training!


Sandra Glanzén is an agility instructor at Hundspektra in Borås. She trains and enters agility competitions with her dogs Zorro, a Mittelspitz, and Röja, a Sheltie. Check out Sandra's tips to give you and your dog the best possible start to agility.

• Find a reward that your dog will \\\"do anything for\\\", such as a treat or a toy. Keep the training simple to make sure you're always successful and always have fun.

• Start by teaching your dog to run straight ahead (between two hurdle supports) towards a bowl containing a treat or a favourite toy. Start two metres in front of the hurdle supports and send your dog straight towards the reward, which should be placed two metres behind the supports.

• Gradually increase the distance that your dog is required to run straight ahead. Then place a jump pole at the bottom of the supports. Once your dog is used to the pole, raise it one step. Over time, you can gradually add obstacles one at a time.
The reward should always be positioned after the last obstacle so your dog is constantly projected forwards.
IMPORTANT: Always use low jump heights.

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Agility is a fantastic sport that can be practised at all levels, from fun and recreation to full precision in championship events. You set the level yourself, and having a variety of obstacles at home is a good start. The obstacles should be firmly positioned and the tunnel should be fixed to the ground.
It's best to start out with an instructor so you learn all the important basics, both with regard to acquiring skills and preventing accidents. Always consult an expert before starting the exercises. Happy training!


Sandra Glanzén is an agility instructor at Hundspektra in Borås. She trains and enters agility competitions with her dogs Zorro, a Mittelspitz, and Röja, a Sheltie. Check out Sandra's tips to give you and your dog the best possible start to agility.

• Find a reward that your dog will \\\"do anything for\\\", such as a treat or a toy. Keep the training simple to make sure you're always successful and always have fun.

• Start by teaching your dog to run straight ahead (between two hurdle supports) towards a bowl containing a treat or a favourite toy. Start two metres in front of the hurdle supports and send your dog straight towards the reward, which should be placed two metres behind the supports.

• Gradually increase the distance that your dog is required to run straight ahead. Then place a jump pole at the bottom of the supports. Once your dog is used to the pole, raise it one step. Over time, you can gradually add obstacles one at a time.
The reward should always be positioned after the last obstacle so your dog is constantly projected forwards.
IMPORTANT: Always use low jump heights.

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